| Photo: Marcio Madeira/FirstView.com
Bensoni
By Alison Baenenfont-weight: normal;
Benjamin Channing Clyburn and Sonia Yoon gave their imaginary Fall muse a familiar backstory: A generous grandmother from Greenwich, Connecticut, has bequeathed her a new wardrobe, and she's had it tailored for a more modern fit.
The fit was fine. But there wasn't enough of the modern to push the collection forward—and at times it felt like Bensoni's girl was playing dress-up. A boxy mohair topper in two tones of scarlet was nice, for instance, but it screamed Camelot.
Fur, though, was a strong addition to the lineup. The best outerwear bet was a fox vest that, viewed from the back, revealed itself to be part cashmere sweater. An unusual print on a smart sheath dress in gray and white turned out to be a digital rendering of fox fur that somehow looked simultaneously organic and supernatural. Clyburn and Yoon have shown a flair for prints in the past; they should pursue this talent further.
Dresses, unfortunately, could have used a more rigorous edit. A series of asymmetrical and one-shouldered numbers cut short and inevitably ruched were hardly special, and with the addition of contrasting cross-body panels of fabric, unflattering. If the concept was a reworked gala gown, perhaps it would have been best to leave the gown as it was.
Missteps aside, Bensoni clearly has potential. Developing a string of go-to basics—including, say, their perfectly tailored skinny cotton faille pants—would be a good start.
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